SAMSUNG 22″ T350 Series FHD 1080p Computer Monitor, 75Hz, IPS Panel, HDMI, VGA (D-Sub), 3-Sided Border-Less, FreeSync, LF22T350FHNXZA

2nd monitor I purchased as I like the first one. Came from the Amazon warehouse and they failed to include part of the stand but I had one from wall mounting a previous previous purchase.
4.5 stars for the monitor
2 stars for Amazon.

This monitor was great while it lasted (which was almost exactly one month). I had this monitor in a corner on a table being used as a TV, connected to my Apple TV. The picture quality was good, still clear in dark scenes, not much flicker. I did notice that it was a bit top heavy for the platform, and also that it was easily moved out of place which I did not care for.

And lo and behold, I came home this week to find my cat had knocked it over, face forward, and when I turned it the upper left section was completely black. Totally destroyed and physical damage is not covered under warranty.

Such a bummer. Next time I will be looking for a monitor that has a sturdier base. This one seems good for a true desktop set up, or somewhere not trafficked by an energetic cat?

great for streaming in between downloads

Disliked delivery something happened at warehouse. Was supposed to be delivered by usps ending up the second day by ups.

This monitor has several attractive features. It can be used with many operating systems including Windows 7. Plus it has the option of using an HDMI-DVI Cable, an HDMI Cable, or a D-Sub (Analog type) Cable. Take note, it does not have a usb drive cable option.

I’m not a gamer. I play basic things like chess, backgammon, and other games, so I can’t comment on it’s gaming features.

I mention the input options because in reading some answers to a question I put forward on how to shut this monitor off, someone who obviously answers questions without understanding or reading them claimed falsely that her monitor shut off when she shut her computer off. That is not the case.

USB ports are the only things I know of which shut down automatically when you power off your computer or laptop. If a usb port is an option it’s not an option on this monitor, and I wouldn’t select that option anyway because it would needlessly use up a usb port.

My computer has 5 usb ports. One is used for my mouse, another for my wireless keyboard, The other 3 I use for everything else. Sometimes I move files from a usb to an external hard drive for storage purposes, so having 2 usb inputs on the front of my tower comes in handy. I wouldn’t want to lose that ability by having to devote the 3rd rear input to my monitor. I have a 3 port splitter on that right now for a usb drive I keep plugged in for daily storage of things like emails etc…

Too many devices these days charge or work off of usb ports, and nobody makes a laptop or tower computer with 152 usb inputs. So I chose to opt for the D-Sub cable option.

I could also free up 2 more usb inputs on the back if I opted for 5 pin type inputs instead of usb inputs for my mouse and keyboard.

This monitor, like all others I’ve ever owned has a power cord. The power cord does not plug into the back of a tower computer or a laptop, hence turning off your computer or laptop won’t shut it off.

I own an old 1970’s era Realistic model stereo amp which has power outlets on the back. One works independent of the amp, and the other is for my turntable. It works with the amp. When you power off the amp, the turntable powers off as well. I’m not aware of things like tower computers or laptops with this feature where you can actually plug in another device which will shut off when you shut off the main device.

As a rule, one should take note that if a device has it’s own power supply, it does not just go into standby mode when you power off your computer. Nor does it shut off automatically when your computer powers off. It has to be shut off to actually be off. That power supply is where the power comes from. It’s not coming from the computer, so shutting the computer off does not shut off power to the monitor.

Some people who answered had some somewhat helpful advice. But many didn’t seem to grasp a very simple question about how to shut this monitor off.

When I checked some reviews I found some proper helpful advice.

One review noted the backwards nature and stupidity of putting the power button on the back of the monitor where it is hard to reach and work and the fact that this monitor is backwards to most in that a blue light comes on when it is shut off, and there is no light on when it’s in use.

My previous monitor would – like most – have no light on when turned off. When you would power down a yellow light would come on, and you would click on that to shut it off. When you would power up (assuming you power up your computer before powering up your monitor) a blue light would come on and stay on during use. Otherwise if you opted to turn the monitor on first, the yellow light would come on until you powered up the computer, then the light would turn blue and stay on during use.

This monitor, as someone else rightly pointed out – is all over the map in that regard.

To shut it off you power down your computer, then you have to reach under to the back of the monitor and push the only button it has on it (stupid design flaw most would agree). When you do that it puts up an on-screen menu. Rather than having a sensible option like pushing it once more to shut it off – instead a refresh icon appears in the middle of the button, so you have to “toggle” down to the bottom of the button and select the power icon. Once you’ve done that, then you have to push that button.

By toggling down what you have to do is press the very bottom of the button on the back. At first I couldn’t figure out how to do that, but if you press the bottom like you would with a joystick it will select the power button option.

Only then – once you’ve pushed the button for the third time in all, will the monitor power off

Again, when you shut your computer off, the blue light will blink every few seconds. That means it’s still on. It’s not in standby or off. It is still sucking power when the blue light is blinking. Only when you go through the 3 steps in shutting it off – as described above, will that blue light become constantly on, and thus the monitor is truly shut off.

As other reviews have pointed out that is very backwards to how most monitors work. When your computer is on and you have the monitor on – the blue light is completely off. Yet when the blue light is constantly on, and not blinking – that’s when it’s off.

When you start your computer you have to push to button on the back to turn the monitor on.

I hope this helps anyone buying one of these monitors. Overall I’m happy with this monitor. It’s a wider screen than my previous one. An Acer which worked fine for about 23 years in all. But overall better and much lighter in terms of product weight.

If you’re buying this as the cheapest possible option for your gamin rig, then you’ll probably be satisfied by the beautiful colors and impressive form factor. But, you should know that you may need to do some significant work to get a picture that’s even passable, and even then there could be problems you can’t fix.

Out of the box, this display’s colors were overwhelmingly Amber (and no, eye saver mode is not enabled). Without any color calibration ability built into the hardware, I’ve had to rely on Windows’s color calibration to fix the issue. After turning greens down by about a third, and red a little less, I’ve gotten the colors to balance. Still, the reds aren’t as saturated as they maybe could be, but it’s not enough to bother me. Once balanced, the colors honestly look great, and I’ve found myself finding colorful music videos to watch just to admire the display’s bright, vibrant range.

This leads us into the dynamic range between how bright and dark the monitor can get. This is the classic limitation of IPS monitors, and while more expensive models can make up for this limitation in various ways, this cost effective model just makes you deal with it. Once again, there are no true brightness or contrast settings built into the display. The setting for brightness, as far as I can tell, simply adjusts the output of the LED backlighting, and contrast changes the difference between how bright and dark those lights will go. Once again we’re left to Windows’s color calibration, which simply gives us a slider for the gamma setting. Unfortunately, setting the gamma ideal for sRGB color vibrancy to around 2.2-2.4 (which is about where it was out of the box) just doesn’t work, even though it does bring out the best colors on this monitor. The issue is that the screen simply can’t recreate enough dark shades, and huge parts of the screen get blacked out. Bright videos might be fine, but gaming is impossible as entering even slightly dim environments makes it impossible to see. To be able to function in-game without a significant disadvantage, I ended up having to crank the gamma down to about 1.4 (lower gamma means a brighter screen), just to make low light environments easily navigable. The end result is that the overall display is a bit washed out, with colors not as vibrant as they could be, but I’ve hit a balance that I’m happy with.

Finally, the most dissappointing note, which ended up losing this monitor half a star for my review, is that as of possesing this monitor for 10 days, I’ve found a stuck pixel. So for now, I’ve got a cyan dot permanently on my monitor. There are a few home remedies I can try to fix this, but it may end up being something I have to live with, or go through the hassle of returning the whole monitor for.

For reference, I’m using a generic PnP display driver. When I get my new computer, I’ll download the manufacturer’s driver and update this review if it helps anything.

In conclusion, the colors and overall image quality are really quite great for such a cheap monitor, as long as you’re willing to put in the time to calibrate everything correctly. This isn’t a monitor for the long haul, but so far it seems like a great option until I’m ready to put in money for a more serious gaming display. I was ready to order a second one for my dual monitor setup, but this stuck pixel has me holding off for now. To put it simply, if you put in the work and can overlook some flaws, you can have an exciting, beautiful time with this monitor, at least until you’re ready to commit to a safer, long term option.

By the way, a note for this age of virtual engagements, the frame of this monitor is so small that putting my Logitech c920 webcam on top actually covers a bit of the screen.